How-2 Surf Good
71Left Wave
Reading and Riding Waves
Reading Waves
This is crucial to getting the best possible waves for the conditions you are surfing in. Based on the surf conditions, waves will break either left, right or even close out (both left and right breaking).
Whether you are goofy foot or regular foot doesn't matter to choosing which way to go on a wave. The key to surfing good is to catch quality waves no matter which direction they are breaking.
So, how do you catch quality waves?
The quality waves are usually the ones that everyone is going for, so you will have to be some what aggresive yet considerate. There is a rule in the ocean called wave priority. The surfer closest to the curl that is paddling for the wave has priority. Experienced surfers know of this rule and will usually honor the priority. Sometimes this rule is broken which leads to a frustrating and possible dangerous experience. There is another term called "snaking". Getting snaked by someone means that the surfer that doesn't have priority drops in or takes the wave in front of the surfer with the priority. Snaking someone prohibits the surfer with priority to not surf the way they feel they should on the wave because the "snaker" is in the way. This act of misconduct can be dangerous to the extent that both surfers will collide with each other at a given time resulting in physical injury or broken boards. I surf to enjoy myself because it destresses me. Not knowing the priority rule can make your surfing experience for that session stressful which dampers on how good you surf that day.
Feeling good and healthy will give you a relaxed but focused sense of strength that naturally comes in play to help you surf good. Of course, surfing more often will help as well.
Continued...
Riding Waves
Having the right surf conditions for the board you're riding will give you the edge to surf better. Every board made is designed for either doing flashy maneuvers, getting barreled, cruising along or riding mountains.
If you are a long boarder, then you may want to surf in mellow conditions because the long board is designed to cruise down the face of the wave. Sometimes the best rides are the smaller waves that are continuously breaking with enough push to the beach where the face of the wave is opened up providing a canvas of endless cruising. If you are a short boarder then you may want to stick to riding waist high to 1-2 foot plus over head surf that isn't closing out around you. Closeouts are not a good thing. They usually provide short and sometimes sketchy rides that can make your session frustrating.
Keep your center of gravity will help with turning your board using your pivot foot which is the foot at the tail end of the board. A lot of the hottest maneuvers are pulled off by keeping the center of gravity low. So, keep you knees bent with your arms out a tad to help keep your balance to control the way you move your board. You head will guide the rest of your body and board in the direction it is turned.
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Last part of article...
Key points to surfing good:
1. Surf often and in good conditions
2. Feel good and relaxed to gain fluidity and endurance
3. Choose the right board for the surf conditions
a. short boards are ideal for waves 2 - 8 feet
b. long boards are ideal for 1 - 6 feet
c. guns are ideal for bigger waves over 8 feet
So, just remember to be courteous of others and pick quality waves to get your surfing at the next level.
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CommentsLoading...
I don't surf much but am going to start this summer.THNKS
Very interesting read. I'd love to know how to surf, but can't even swim yet. So, I just watch in awe for now.
Thanks















2 years ago
Great stuff! I will try these techniques. Thanks again! :)